It was grim, grey and gross today. It was everything I’d been warned about the Sea of Japan coast and it drained me utterly.
I woke with the sunrise at 4.34 (isn’t that ridiculous?!) and packed away my tent in the light drizzle. The roads were empty and before it even reached my usual departure time I already had 45km under my belt. And I’d reached Tojinbo – a dramatic rocky outcrop and one of Japan’s top 3 suicide locations (there really is a top 3 for everything, huh?).

The sea was timid and the whole thing was a little disappointing before a real breakfast.
The wind so far on this trip has been much as though I’ve been following a giant rear-facing fan down the road. Today it kept on trying to blow me back. The rain stopped for a couple of hours but returned with a vengeance. The clouds sucked the mountains out of their sockets and buried the sea and then they began to deposit their loads all over me. The forecast gave me no reason to stop so I plowed on to Kanazawa and my host, Sumio.
I think a dog with a spare kennel would’ve been my hero but Sumio sorted me out. I showered and he fed me and I was somewhat restored. He invited me to stay as long as I need to to avoid this rain. Legend. I’m exhausted.